Ladakh Adventure Guide: Acclimatisation, Permits and How to Reach Leh

Ladakh is a high-altitude desert, and Leh, its main town, sits at about 3,500 m. That altitude is what makes Ladakh spectacular, and also what you need to plan around. This guide covers how to get there, how to stay well, and the adventures worth booking.

How to reach Leh

• By air: Leh's Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport has direct flights from Delhi and other cities all year. It is the fastest way in, but you land at altitude with no time to adjust, so rest is essential.
• Manali to Leh by road: about 430 km over high passes, usually open from around June to October. Most people take two days.
• Srinagar to Leh by road: about 420 km via Zoji La and Kargil, usually open from around April or May to November. The gradual climb helps with acclimatisation.

Acclimatisation: the most important part of your plan

If you fly in, spend your first 36 to 48 hours in Leh doing very little: sleep, drink plenty of water, eat light, and avoid alcohol and smoking. Do not schedule an adventure for the day you land.

Watch for signs of acute mountain sickness (AMS): headache, nausea, dizziness, unusual tiredness or trouble sleeping. Mild symptoms often settle with rest. If they get worse, especially breathlessness at rest or confusion, go lower and see a doctor straight away. If you have a heart or lung condition, talk to your doctor before you travel.

Permits

Some areas, including Nubra Valley, Pangong and Tso Moriri, are protected areas. Permit rules and fees change from time to time, so check the current rules on the Leh district permit portal before you go. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit. Carry several photocopies of your ID, as checkposts may keep one.

When to go

The main season is June to September, when the high roads are open and days are warm. May and October are quieter and colder. Winter is extremely cold, with many roads closed and only some activities available.

Adventures to book

• Zanskar river rafting (Chilling to Nimmu): about 25 km on the Zanskar to its meeting with the Indus, through a dramatic canyon. The usual season is mid-June to early September, when the river is at its best. The water is very cold, so wetsuits or drysuits are given.
• Downhill cycling from Khardung La: you are driven up one of the highest motorable passes in the world, then ride about 39 km downhill to Leh. It is mostly freewheeling, but the brakes and cold make it a real adventure.
• Nubra desert camp and treks: sand dunes, double-humped camels and starry skies. Read our Nubra Valley guide.

Things to see around Leh

• Shanti Stupa: a white stupa above town, best at sunset.
• Leh Palace: the old nine-storey royal palace overlooking the old town.
• Thiksey and Hemis monasteries: two of the most impressive monasteries in Ladakh, within an hour of Leh.
• Magnetic Hill and the Indus–Zanskar confluence: on the Srinagar road, often combined with the rafting day.